Once you’re done, remove the router and the sled and sweep off your work. Note, I didnt need the shim anymore because this side was now flat. Once you surface one side, flip your work over and repeat the process. Now slowly move onto the surface of the workpiece and make your first cut by slowly passing the router over the surface, adjusting it about 3/4″ on each pass. Make sure your router bit is away from the surface of the workpiece and turn the router on. Slab Flattening Mill - 2x4 Capacity SKU: SLBFLT-2X4. I also used a shim here to remove any rocking. Since the work piece weighs over 40 lbs, there’s no need to fasten it down, it will stay in place. To hold my workpiece in place, I used 150 lb mag switches to keep the work piece from moving laterally. Just plunge down until the bit makes contact. Now with the router OFF, find the lowest point on the surface of the material. This tool gives you the ability to extend all the way down to the workpiece. The sole is precisely flattened for smooth running over your workpiece.
I used a 1 1/4″ mortising bit, but I could have used a surfacing bit just as easily. This solid brass made knob holds the blade firmly and makes the blade very stable while you run the plane. Now just cut the sides for the sled with a miter saw. Once again, exercise caution with your hands and keep them well away from the blade. Make sure when you cut the other side that you secure the waste piece in the middle with your fingers so that it doesn’t wander into the blade and cause kickback. Now run the piece across the blade until you reach the holes on either end. ** PLEASE USE CAUTION** always be aware of where your hands are with regard to the blade since you are blindly raising the blade through the work piece. I use my linear rail router sled a lot for flattening wood.This time I had an opportunity to make a relief carving, so I wanted to use my router sled for tha. Turn on your saw and slowly raise the blade up through the plywood. Use feather boards to keep constant downward and lateral pressure against the work piece.With the saw blade retracted, slide the work piece over the blade.
This will serve as the beginning and end of the slot. At the drill press, drill two 1 1/2″ holes at either end of the sled bottom. Plus, get Fine Woodworking emails filled with plans, how-to, and special offers. Add 1/32″ to this measurement to allow just enough room to prevent binding when the router moves across the sled. Nick Offermans shopmade router jig flattens thick slabs to create. See the Care and Use tab for the instructions and plan.Ī way to flatten slabs without buying a costly flattening mill.To cut the bottom of the sled, use your router’s base to set the width of the cut. If you don’t already have a proper surface to support the jig, the instructions include an easy-to-follow plan for building a supporting frame with risers that can be adjusted to accommodate workpieces of varying thickness. To build the router sled, you’ll need nominal 1 1/2" electrical metallic tubing (EMT), tools and a router with a suitable flattening bit. The wheels strung onto U-bolts form the glide mechanisms that allow the router carrier to travel along the rails. If you dont have a planer, or your project is wider than your planer can fit, you can build this Router Sled fast and easy.Materials and tools used:1/2'- 2. It includes a CNC-routed Baltic birch router carrier and a pair of trunnions, as well as U-bolts, hex nuts, washers and nylon wheels. The assembled sled lets you pass your router back and forth in an XY-plane to consistently flatten an entire slab.Ĭombined with materials you supply, the kit offers an excellent option for milling live-edge tabletop slabs that are too large for a conventional thickness planer and jointer, or for projects using wood with difficult grain such as crotch wood, burls or knots. This innovative kit provides the necessary hardware to build a large-capacity router sled for flattening slabs.
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